four out of four forks
On Saturday I went to Fairsted Kitchen in Brookline's Washington Square for brunch with a few friends. It was my first visit to Fairsted, though I had been curious about it for some time. Fairsted Kitchen is a relatively new entrant to the Boston area restaurant scene. It opened in 2013 and has been quietly growing a loyal following since. And for good reason.
The food is creative, comforting and fun, not to mention downright delicious. FK describes itself as "contemporary American cuisine with subtle accents of Middle Eastern and European spice." Executive Chef Jason Albus, formerly of Menton, describes memories of a family coming together for dinner at Grandma's table on FK's website. This idea of a family dinner is reflected in the menu, which offers a range of options, large and small to encourage sharing, even at brunch.
This place also sets itself apart through its service and setting. Picture tons of natural light streaming through the big bay windows that overlook Beacon Ave, a soft interior color pallet and quirky vintage books and trinkets dotting the walls. Antique table settings and silverware complete the theme. Our waiter was friendly, patient and made great recommendations. We also met one of Fairsted's owners, Steve Bowman (also formerly of Menton), an incredibly affable guy that clearly loves what he does. Fairsted Kitchen is brimming with coziness and good vibes. So much so that we just couldn't bring ourselves to leave and lingered for another half hour or so after brunch over coffee.
Now on to some food porn.
We started off with the Short Rib Croquettes with Black Trumpet Mushroom Puree. The croquettes had a craveable, crunchy exterior and a rich, smooth filling of short rib and blue cheese. This was paired with an earthy mushroom puree. Together, magic.
For my entree, I had the House Cheddar Scone with Red Eye Gravy and Scallions and have spent too much time thinking about it since. Drool. The scones were crisp and flaky, with just the right amount of sharpness breaking through from the Cheddar. This was topped with tender, rich sausage, and a red eye gravy with the gentlest heat. In case you are curious, red eye gravy is a classic Southern sauce, that incorporates black coffee.
The two friends I was with both had the Potato Cake with House Smoked Salmon. The potato cake is essentially a gigantic latke. What set this dish apart for me was the smoked salmon. The salmon cuts were thick with a tenderness akin to sashimi, unlike any smoked salmon I've ever had. All this was topped with crème fraîche and arugula.
Not pictured are the empty plates that followed. I can't wait to back and try this place for dinner!
1704 Beacon Street
Brookline, MA 02445